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D5 - Morphodynamics and sediment budgets in coastal seas

Burghard W. Flemming, Dierk Hebbeln
Christian Winter, Alexander Bartholomä, Verner B. Ernstsen

The shorefaces of many tidal and non-tidal storm-affected shelf seas exhibit well structured and highly dynamic depositional cross-shore units which have distinct sedimentological characteristics and morphological expressions. Although many of such features have been described in fair detail, their origin, dynamics and especially their sediment budgets are in most cases not well understood.

In addition, their response to sea-level rise and changes in climatic forcing are largely unknown. In view of the predicted acceleration in sea-level rise over this century and the anticipated changes in regional climate patterns, such knowledge will be of crucial importance in combating adverse affects in the coastal zones world-wide. The aim of this project is to close this gap in knowledge by approaching the problem with new and sophisticated survey equipment deployed at time intervals appropriate to each geological feature.
Precision of the applied multibeam echosounder (MBES) system
Over 4 years, repetitive bathymetric measurements of a shipwreck in the Grådyb tidal inlet channel in the Danish Wadden Sea were carried out using a state-of-the-art high-resolution multibeam echosounder (MBES) coupled with a real-time long range kinematic (LRK™) global positioning system.
Sediment transport patterns on the inner shelf of the southern North Sea
Bedform patterns on a shallow inner shelf of the southern North Sea are examined in various hydrodynamic energy conditions. A sediment transport mechanism based on small-scale bedform dynamics is constructed from high-resolution swath bathymetric datasets.
Coastal morphodynamic modelling
Process-based numerical modelling of coastal morphodynamics involves model and data reduction schemes in order to cope with computational limitations. Model reduction, on the one hand, may involve the discretisation of an interactive multidimensional, diverse natural system into a reduced set of coupled process-simulation modules.
Sediment budget of ebb-tidal deltas and their role in the coastal morpho- and sediment dynamics
Ebb deltas at the mouths of tidal inlets are among the key areas in coastal morphodynamics as a majority of coastal erosion problems can be traced to changes in adjacent inlets. General patterns of sediment dynamics at ebb-tidal deltas are outlined in conceptual models such as the one by Kana (1999). These models envisage a sediment transport seaward through the tidal channel and deposition at a distal lobe where the ebb current velocity decreases below the sediment transport threshold.