Return Transit

Position: 80.21 N, 29.44 E

Weather and ice conditions: Temp -1 C, wind 5 m/s N-NE. Cloudy, snow showers, open water.

Report 18: The ice edge

At 0200 UTC we left the pack ice at 82.23 N, 038 E by following the trail that had been created recently by the Yamal, another of the Russian nuclear icebreakers. Our rendezvous with Yamal occurred on Friday morning, while she was heading north, to the pole. At the ice edge, our flotilla disbanded, and we bade farewell to Sovetskiy Soyuz and Vidar Viking. The Russian vessel is heading back to assist along the Northern Sea Route. Vidar Viking, faster than Oden in open water, heads directly to southern Norway, while Oden continues to Tromsö, where we expect to arrive at 0700 local time on Tuesday.

Helicopters have been essential in ensuring the success of the expedition. Sven Stenvall, owner of the Kallaxflyg helicopter company, brought along another pilot and a mechanic to service the two copters based on Oden. While the expedition was in the ice, the copters flew daily. They transported people among the three vessels and they were also used to conduct ice reconnaissance flights and to set out ice buoy GPS stations.

To celebrate the expedition's end, a traditional Swedish surströmming party was held. Surströmming is fermented herring, with a kick. Bacterial decay continues long after the fish are canned, resulting in bulging containers difficult to open. The real threat, however, is the odor that's escapes when the tins are pierced. The bouquet has been described as that similar to the inside of an outhouse without ventilation; and that's being generous. Only the heads of the fish, about 10 to 15 cm long, are removed before canning.

Traditionalists eat chunks of fish with potatoes. Others wrap fillets in flatbread containing sour cream, onions, and tomatoes. The festive meal is accompanied by hearty renditions of "snapsvisa" (schnapps drinking songs), such as Helan går (which the sounds like "hell and gore"). Interestingly, not all Swedes enjoy surströmming. Many crew members, particularly the younger ones, fled to the nether parts of the ship during the party, having eaten a steak dinner earlier in the evening. All 50 or so taking part in the surströmming party enjoyed the cultural experience; and apparently some even liked the fish.

Fleet Position: 88.29 N, 73.19E

Weather and ice conditions: Temp -8 C, wind 6-10 m/s SW, Broken clouds. Ice coverage 7-8/10, with open leads

Report 17: ACROSS THE NORTH POLE

At 2200 UTC Tuesday we arrived at the North Pole for a short ceremony and an opportunity for people from all three vessels to visit together on the ice. Pictures were taken and warm Swedish glögg (mulled, fortified wine) was served. A cold wind was blowing from the south (where else?!).

The transit now follows easy leads heading towards the coast of Svalbard .

The convoy is led by Sovetskiy Soyuz, the Russian icebreaker. This vessel is a sister ship to Arktika, the first surface vessel to reach the Pole in 1977. She is crewed by 115 people, and her usual task is to assist along the Northern Sea Route. The ship, powered by nuclear energy, has 75,000 horsepower, more than both Oden and Viking combined. Soyuz contains a salt-water swimming pool, a gymnasium, several dining rooms, and a fully outfitted hospital run by doctor Svetlana. Although no one on the expedition has been critically ill or injured, fortunately, the doctor is greatly appreciated for the excellent treatment she has provided to those of us who
have needed care.

The Soyuz has been an essential component of our success. During transits, she takes the lead, finds the best paths, and breaks ice so that the Oden, and the Vidar Viking may follow at a good pace. When coring was being conducted, Soyuz, in the role of "destroyer" scouted "upstream" from the Oden and Viking, breaking larger floes and ice ridges into smaller pieces that can be managed by Oden (the "protector") and then Viking.